【轻木航模飞机图纸】Taylorcraft

【轻木航模飞机图纸】Taylorcraft Complete Instructions and plans to build and fly the Taylorcraft U. S. Army cooperation plane by EARL STAHL AS THE ressult of the brilliant performance in the war games last summer the Army placed orders with the three largest manufacturers of lightplanes, Piper, Taylorcraft and Aeronca, for a fleet of “aerial jeeps”, more popularly known as A small scale replica of the Army's latest airplane. Parasol wing and long “grasshoppers”. fuselage make it an excellent contest model. The structure is simple, light Operating under simulated war conditions, and strong the "grasshopper fleet" proved that lightplanes are indispensable in modern warfare. Flown by civilian pilots, these planes proved their adaptability for all kinds of observation work, personnel carrying, directing traffic and troop movements, even picking-up and delivering massages, maps, and materials in flight. To further prove their value the "grasshoppers" repeatedly flew from seemingly impossible areas. In Louisiana army engineers prepared landing spots measuring a mere 400 ft. long and 100 ft. wide-and without considering wind direction. Obviously larger, faster planes could not use such bases, but these lightplanes in hands of skilled pilots made numerous takeoffs and landings. It was all in a day's work for pilots to land on highways, sometimes in open spaces between moving convoys, to complete a mission or possibly borrow a few gallons of gas. During maneuvers in Texas one pilot made several landings on the up-slope of a high mountain, then taxied around the gravel ledge rim, and took off on the down - slope. Of course there were a few accidents, but they were of a minor nature and quickly repaired. The most serious mishap resulted from a spin as a pilot cicled low so he could “Yoo- Hoo” to his girl friend. "Grasshoppers" used in the war games were identical with ships available to civilians, all being converted tandem trainers powered by Continental 65 hp. engines. The only important additions were radio transmitters and receiver. For our model we have selected crosspiece centers under the upper formers shaft, then carve a right - hand propeller, the Taylorcraft trainer, known in the on the nose so they will not interfere with by cutting away the back, face of the Army as the O-57. This plane is similar in the rubber motor. Use the widest sheet blades until there is about 1/16" appearance, construction and performance available; cement it to the entire adjacent undercamber in each. Make each surface to other tandem trainers on the market. frame using pins and rubber bands to hold smooth and uniform with sandpaper. Available with Continental, Lycoming or it in place until dry. Extreme front of the Blade thickness is then easily determined Franklin engines of 65 hp., the nose is a solid block or laminations, as as the front is shaved away. Thin the commercial version performs as follows: shown. Roughly cut to shape, cut out hole blades as much as possible, still retaining Top speed, 102 m.p.h.; landing speed, 35 for the nose plug, then cement to the desired strength. Round the tips like the m.p.h.; climb 600 ft. per min.; cruising fuselage front. When dry, cut the block to prop shown in the photos. Carefully sand range, 300 miles on 14 gallons of fuel. a smooth shape, then sand entire nose to and balance the prop as the final The model has the same fine shape. operation. Several coats of light dope, if characteristics as the real ship: Bend the two landing gear struts lightly sanded between each, will produce construction is easy and flight to shape and size shown from .040 music a smooth surface. A free - wheel gadget to performance is matched only by wire, attach to fuselage by neatly binding improve glide should be attached to the attractiveness. with thread and then applying several front and a bearing to the back. coats of cement. Join bottoms of the struts The nose plug is made from by soldering or with thread and cement. laminated squares of 1/8" sheet with a CONSTRUCTION. -Before The 1/16" sheet fill-in can be cut and 1/32" plywood front. Test flights of the starting, the fuselage plans should be fitted but should not be attached until the original model showed that several joined: incidentally, if you do not want to fuselage is covered; the center struts degrees of both right and down thrust are mar your magazine, make tracings of the likewise. desirable, so drill the hole in this manner. plans on semi-transparent paper. Make full size plans of the right Cement washers to the front and back to First make the fuselage and left wing halves so parts call be fix the thrust line. underframe, of 3/32" sq. balsa longerons assembled directly over them. Using the and cross-pieces, indicated by light patterns given, cut 18 of the regular and 2 shading. Make two side frames, one atop COVERING AND of the tip ribs from soft 1/16" or 1/20" the other for identity; the cement will ASSEMBLY - Before the frames are sheet. Pin all like ribs together and sand to probably cause them to stick together but covered, they must be lightly but uniformity, then cut the notches with they can be separated by a razor blade. thoroughly sanded to remove all flaws and accuracy. Pieces for the tips are cut from When dry, invert the side frames over a roughness. Colored tissue is used, banana 1/8" sheet and assembled over the plan. complete top view plan and join with oil or light dope is the adhesive. Cement Taper the 1/8" x 3/8" trailing edges before 3/32" sq. cross-pieces at the cabin. Next cellophane to side windows before pinning to place over the plan. Pins keep pull the backs together and add remaining covering the fuselage. While performing the ribs in position. Spars are hard balsa; cross-pieces in the rear. Crack longerons the latter use numerous small pieces, the uppers being 1/16" sq. while the lower just in front of the cabin to pull sides carefully lapped, to avoid wrinkles; also are 3/32" sq. Leading edge is 1/8" x 1/4". together as shown. Check continually for cover the sheet balsa nose with tissue. Tilt the inner ribs a bit for correct correct alignment. Each side of each wing half, stabilizer and dihedral. Cement all joints firmly, remove The various fuselage formers are rudder requires a separate piece of tissue, from plans and finish the leading edges shown; cut from each medium grade 1/16" tips, etc., require individual pieces, too. and tips by trimming with a razor and sheet. Cut the notches shown and cement Lightly spray all covered parts with water sandpapering. to place. Stringers are medium hard 1/16" to tighten the covering - do not, however Tail surfaces come next; both sq. strips: fit in the notches and cement apply any clear dope until later. stabilizer and rudder are of similar fast. From the cabin back stringers are Prepare to assemble parts by construction. Make complete frames using cemented directly to the sides of the under completing the fuselage. Cut a windshield 1/16" sheet outlines, 1/16" x 1/8" strips for frame. Center section ribs, cut from 1/16" pattern from writing paper by the trial and spars and 1/16" sq. pieces for ribs. When sheet, are shown: two are needed with a error method; note the windshield extends dry, remove frames from the jigs and add third center cut as shown by the broken over the center section to the first 1/16" sq. strips to every side of each rib. lines. Cement them to top longerons, crossmember. Once the pattern fits The ribs are later cut and sanded to against the inner edge leaving a 1/32" perfectly cut from celluloid and attach streamline shape indicated. Taper leading ledge on which to later rest the wing with cement. The landing gear fill-in was and trailing edges to match the ribs. panels. Finish around the cabin by adding made previously and is cemented to the To obtain fine flights from any the wedge-shaped pieces. The curved back wires. Cover the whole landing gear with flying scale model the propeller must be windows are cut from 1/16" sheet. tissue. The center landing struts are efficient. Select a hard block of proper Cover the nose with soft 1/32" rounded bamboo splints with streamline dimensions and cut the blank to shape sheet, but before installing remove the balsa covers at the top, representing shock shown. Drill the tiny hole for the prop absorber covers. Cement the bamboo to outlines, etc., etc., are all made with along the wing chord. Add weight to the the bottom of the struts but not the top so colored tissue. Tail wheel and similar nose if necessary to obtain this balance, they can spring apart. Wheels can be made parts are made from balsa scraps. since only minor, adjustments are made by from laminated discs of balsa or may be Additional details can be found on photos warping tail surfaces. Glide the model purchased. Cement bearings to the sides of of the big "grasshoppers" for those over deep grass making any further the wheels so they will revolve smoothly interested in reproducing every item. adjustments for a good glide. then place on the axles and hold in place Naturally any uncolored wood parts Power flight adjustments are with a drop of solder. should be doped to match the color made by off-setting the thrust line. Start Care must be exercised when scheme. with just a few turns - then use more assembling the surfaces to the fuselage to Bend the propeller shaft power as justified. Placing a sliver of wood keep everything in perfect alignment. First from .040 music wire. Slip the nose plug, between the tip of the nose plug and the cemet stabilizer to place; it is parallel to several washers and prop on the shaft in nose tilts the thrust line down, helping to the work bench. A tissue fillet is placed that order, then bend the shaft end as iron out stalls under power. Right or left from fuselage to stabilizer before the required for the free-wheeler. thrust helps to control the circles. rudder is set in position. Off-set the rudder Once the "bugs" that usually about 1/16" for a right circle glide. Wing show up in first tests are eliminated, use a FLYING - Depending on the tips must be dihedraled about 1-1/2" for mechanical winder to get maximum turns finished weight of the model, ten or twelve proper stability. Be sure to attach the and power from the rubber motor. Take strands of 1/8" brown rubber is required wings firmly. Wing struts are shown; care where you launch your for power. Lubricate the strands, hook assemble and color before cementing to "grasshopper," for the top of a tree or the them on the prop shaft and then drop the position. The entire model is now given side of a building is hardly a suitable other end through the fuselage. As shown, one or two coats of clear dope. landing field; you have quite an a bamboo pin holds the motor in the rear. There are numerous minor details investment of time and effort in your If necessary, remove a small section of added to improve appearance. For the Taylorcraft - protect it with good covering to aid in getting the motor in more ambitious builder the four - cylinder judgment. position. engine offers plenty of possibilities for The Taylorcraft "grasshopper" VICTORY detail. Insignia, letters, control surface should balance at a point about 1/2 back A large high pitch prop gives it. long duration Scanned from April 1942 Model Airplane News by Garry T. Hunter