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ZERO-
CLEARANCE
TABLE SAW
INSERT
WoodWorking
Technique
1 © 2007 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
When I rip thin strips, I like to use
a shop-made table saw insert that
has a splitter. It helps to keep the
wood from binding on the back of
the blade. (Mine is a zero-clear-
ance insert, shown at right.)
To make the new insert, you’ll
need a blank that matches the
thickness of your old insert. (I
used 1⁄2" MDF. It was a little thin,
but later I shimmed it with tape
until it was flush with the top of
the saw.) Next, trace the outline of
the original insert onto the blank
and rough cut it to within 1/16" of
the pencil line, see Fig. 1.
To trim the blank to the same
size as the original insert, I first
1
2 3
Zero-clearance inserT
a.
carpet-taped them together. Then
I mounted a flush trim bit in the
router table and, with the bearing
riding along the original insert,
trimmed the new one to size, as
you can see in Fig. 1a.
To rip the blade slot in the new
insert, carefully align the fence
with the edge of the original
insert, see Fig. 2. Then rip the
slot, turning off the saw when
you’re 3" from the end.
To make the splitter, rip a piece
to the exact thickness of the kerf,
1" high and 3" long, like you see
in Fig. 3. Sand the end closest to
the blade to a point and glue the
splitter into the kerf. W
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