深海极限波浪运动特性的简便算法
J.MarineSci,App1.(200918:27—32
DoI:10.1007/sl1804—009—8046—8
Asimplifiedmodelforextreme--wavekinematicsindeepsea
TENGBinandNINGDe.zhi
StateKeyLaboratoryofCoastalandOffshoreEngineering,DalianUniversityofTechnology,Dalian116023,China
Abstract:Basedonthefiffh-orderStokesregularwavetheory.asimplifiedmodelforextreme—wave
kinematicsindeepseawasdeveloped.Inthismode1.fromthewaverecordstheaverageofo neighboringwaveperiodsfortheextremecrestortroughwasdefinedastheperiodoftheStokeswave
bytheupanddownzero—
crossingmethods.Thentheinputwaveamplitudewasdeducedbysubstituting thewaveperiodandextremecrestortroughintotheexpressionforthefifth—
orderStokeswaveelevation.
Thusthecorrespondingformulaforthewavevelocitycanbeusedtodescribekinematicsbeneaththe
cxtrcvf~cwave.Bvcomparisonwiththepublishednumericalmodelsandexperimentaldata.theproposed
modelisvalidatedtobeabletocalculatetheextremewavevelocityrathereasilyandaccurately.
Keywords:extremewave:deepsea;fifth.orderStokesregularwave;kinematics;velocityfield
CLCnumber:P731.22Documentcode:AArticleID:1671—9433(2009)0l一0027—06
1Introduction
Becauseoftheeriectsofhurricanesandearthquakes,
thereoftenoccursomeextremewavestodevastateocean structures,suchasoffshoreplatforlns,risersandshipsetc., inthecomplicatedandseveredeepsea.Thevelocitiesof extremewavesarerequiredforrelatedcalculationand analysisofloadsonstructures.Itwillbedirectlyrelated totheeconomicsandsafeWofoceanstructuredesigning. Becauseofthecomplexityofdeepseaenvironments,fast andaccuratedescriptionofthedistributionof extreme—wavevelocityisstillachallengeatpresent. Manyresearchesonextremewavekinematicshavebeen carriedoutnumericallyandexperimentallyinthepast twodecades.Forexample,Baldocketal【,Johannessen
etal[,
Sheetal1]andGrueetal[]physicallystudiedthe kinematicsofextremewavesindeepwater,andFentonet alI.
Johannessenetale】andBatemanetal[]researched
theextremewavekinematicsusingvariousnumerical models.Althoughallabovemodelscandescribethewave kinematicswel1.itisdi所culttoapplythemdirectlyto
engineeringpracticebecausemanygivenconditionsare neededbeforephysicalornumericalsimulation.suchas frequencyrangeandamplitudedistributionofwave components,etc.
Asimpleandaccuratemodelwasdevelopedbasedonthe fifth-orderStokeswavetheoryforfastcalculatingthe extreme—wavevelocityfieldindeepsea.Theonlyknown conditionwasthetimeseriesofextremewavesurface, Receiveddate:2008—07一O3.
Foundationitem:SupportedbytheNSFC(underGrantNos.5070900and
10772040)andtheNationalHighTechResearchandDevelopmentProgram
ofChina(2006AA09A109--3).
CorrespondingauthorEmaihdzning@dlut.edu.cn whichcouldbeeasilyrecordedinpractice.Thekey problemsaretodefineproperwaveperiodand
appropriateinputwaveamplitudefortheStokeswave whichcanrepresentextremewavesaboveorbelowthe meanwatersurface.Intheproposedmodel,theupand downzero.crossingmethodisadoptedtodefinethe averageoftwoneighboringwaveperiodscontainingthe extremecrestortroughastheperiodoftheStokeswave. Thustheinputwaveamplitudecanbededucedby substitutingthevalueofextremewavecrestortrough intothefcIrmulaforthefiftl1.orderStokeswaveelevation. Theproposedmodelisvalidatedbycomparisonwiththe publishednumericalresultsandexperimentaldata.Itis alsocomparedwiththelinearandsecond.orderirregular analyticalsolutions.
2Mathematicalmodel
Fig.1givesthesketchesofextremewavecrestandtrough Theyaregenerallygeneratedbythemethodofwave focusing,inwhichallwavecomponentsareconsidered. SomeresearchersattemptedtousetheStokeswaveto describeex仃emewavesforconvenience.Thefih.order Stokeswaveisamuchhighernonlinearregularwave solutionatpresent.Althoughitjustdescribestheperiodic wave,itcanaccuratelypredictextremewavecrestor troughvalueandthecorrespondingvelocityfieldif properwaveperiodandinputamplitudearechosen.The
fth—orderStokeswavevelocityfordeepwatercanbe
expressedasfollowsLsI:
一一
)e~cos(+ 船ezbc.s2(一)+lkcSe3acos3(一
刎)】.?.()
28
Thecorrespondingwaveelevationexpressionis
0.I2
0O8
004
-
()04
.
008
0.12
0.12
0.08
004
—
0.04
O.O8
.
0l2
6
l}s
(a)Crest 89
6789
(b,Trough
Fig.1Sketchofextremewaveelevationhistories =
?Lcosc一+
(12十j1)c.s2(一)+(33+297,)c.s3(一)+
L~ncos4(kx一)+—12—5ssc.s5(kx一)]
3384
(21
wherewaveslope占=kA.kiswavenumber,Ainput
waveamplitudeandangularfrequency.Thefollowing dispersionrelationissatisfied:
.
24go
28x/gk
Asacomparison,thelineartheoreticalwavevelocityand elevationindeepseaarealsogivenasfollows: v(x,y,z,f)=Agoecos(/~一cot)(3)
and
rffx,y,z,t)=Acos(~一got)(4)
whereandcosatisfythelineardispersionrelation 2.
FromEqs.(1),(4),itcanbeseenthatthetimeseriesof waveelevationandvelocityandtheirextremevaluescan beobtainedoncethewaveperiodTandinputwave TENGBin.etalAsimplifiedmodelforextreme—wavekinematicsindeepsea amplitudeAaregiven.Similarly,thelinearfifth—order
inputwaveamplitudescanalsobeobtainedfromEqs.(2) and(4)ifthewaveperiodTandextremesurfacevalues AnI8xorAminareknown.
TodescribetheextremewavesasshowninFig.1using theStokesregularwavetheory,twowaveperiodsT1and
/'2,bothcontainingtheperiodofextremewave crest/trough,aredefinedbytheupanddown
zero.crossingmethodsrespectivelyandtheiraverageis takenastheStokeswaveperiod.FromthestudiesofNing eta1[9]andBatemanetal{们.theshapeofextremewaveis
symmetrica1abouttheextremecrestortroughifthewave nonlineariWisratherweakerandthecaseisclosetothe linearonei.e.:/'2.However,suchsymmetrywillbe deterioratedandT1willnotequaltoT2againwiththe increaseofnonlinearity.Therefore.theaverageofT1and T2istakenastheStokeswaveperiodinthispaperto considerthenonlineareffects.Theproposedmethodis similartothatmentionedbyGrueetalusingthetime intervaloftwoneighboringtroughsofextremecrestas thewaveperiod.Butthe1atter'sdisadvantageisthatthe minima1locationcannotbefoundeasilybecausethe troughwil1bemuchflatterowingtostrongerwave nonlinearity.Therefore.itisnotsuggestedhere.Thusthe inputwaveamplitudecanbecalculatedbysubstituting thewaveperiodTandtheextremewaveamplitudeAmax orAiintoEqs.(2)and(4)respectively.
3Numericalresultsanddiscussions
Tovalidatetheproposedmodel,theinputparametersof extremewavesinaninfinitelydeepwaterusedbyNinget altaretakenasanexampleandshowninFig.2and Table1.Thefullynonlinearnumerica1wavetankbased onatime..domainhigher..orderboundaryelementmethod [91isadoptedtosimulatethecorrespondingextremewave timeseriesandvelocityfieldbeneaththeextremecrestor trough.Bycomparisonwithit,theeffectofthepresent
regularwavemodelforpredictingextremewavecanbe validated.
10
,
,
一
,
6
4
2
f/ltz
Fig.2Inputwavespectra&frequencies JournalofMarineScienceandApplicaton(2009,8:27—32
Table1Parametersofinputwavegroup
Frequencyrangef(Hz)0.6_厂1.5
Peakfrequency0.80
SumofinputamplitudesAi(m)0.04375,0.0875,0.120 Numberofwavecomponents30
Waveslopes岛0.130,0.283,0.356
Figs.3and4givethetimeseriesofextremewavecrest andthecorrespondingvelocityfieldbeneaththehighest crestwithA,=0.04375m,respectively,inwhichthe resultsobtainedbythefullynonlinearnumericalwave tanktechniouearemarkedas'FN—NWT'.The
comparisonswiththefifth.orderStokesregularwave resultsresolvedbythepresentmodelarealsoshownin thefigures.Thelinearregularwavevelocityfieldisalso giveninFig.4andmarkedas'linear—RWT'.Fromthe
fullynonlinearcrestwaveelevationhistoryinFig.3.it canbededucedthattheperiodandinputamplitude
correspondingtothefifth.orderStokesregularwaveare T=I.186sandA0.043l5m.respectively.Andthe linearinputamplitudeisAI=A=0.04587m.FromFig.4, itcanbeseenthattherearegoodagreementsbetweenthe fullynonlinearresultsandthefih.ordersolutions.and thelinearsolutionisa1ittlegreaterthanthetwoformers. O08
0.06
.
O02
.
0.04
,
0.06
6789lo
t/m
Fig.3TimeseriesofextremewavecrestwithAI0.04375m 0
.
0.2
?
O.4
O.6
.
O+8
.
1.O
00.10.20,304
v/ms
Fig.4Distributionoftheextremevelocityfieldbeneaththe
highestcrestwithAI=0.04375m
Figs.5and6describetheextremewavetroughcasewith F.0.04375m.Inthiscase.theperiodandinput amplitudeofthefifth—orderStokeswaveare1.197s.
A.0.04403mrespectively.Thecorresponding1inear inputamplitudeis1=min=-0.04123m.Similar conclusionswiththoseinFigs.3and4canbeobtained exceptthatthelinearkinematicresultisalittlesmaller thantheothers.Theproposedmodelshowsagood descriptionforextremetroughbelowthemeanwater 1eve1anditsvelocityfield.
tls
Fig.5Timeseriesofextremewavetroughwith,=一0.04375m
O
.
O.2
毫O-4
0.6
.
0.8
.
1
00.IO.20.30.4
vI/ms
Fig.6Distributionoftheextremevelocityfieldbeneaththe lowesttroughwith,=一0.04375m
Figs.7and8showtheex仃emewavecrestcaseasthe
inputamplitudesumA,isincreasedto0.0875m.From thefullynonlinearnumericalresultsinFig.7.thewave periodandinputamplitudecorrespondingtothe
fifu1.orderStokeswaveareT=I.135sandA5=0.089l1m respectively,andthelinearinputwaveamplitudeis A1=Amax=0.1028m.FromFig.8,itcanbeseenthatthe linearkinematicsismuchgreaterthantheotherswiththe increasingofwavenonlineariespeciallynearthe instantaneousfreesurface.However,thethreeresults agreewellwitheachanotherwhenthewaterdepth exceedsabout0.6m.whichindicatesthatthenonlinearity isdecreasedtothelinearcasebelowthedepth-0.6m. Figs.9and10aretheextremewavetroughcaseasthe inputamplitudesumA1isdecreasedto-0.0875m.From O
OO
g
30
thefullynonlinearnumericalresultsinFig.9.thewave periodandinputamplitudecorrespondingtothe fifth—orderStokeswaveareT-1.195sandA':.0.09431 mrespectively,andthe1inearinputwaveamplitudeis A1max=0.1028m.Fromthefigure,itcanbeseenthat thedifferencebetween1inearkinematicsandtheothersis notasgreatasthatintheextremecrestcase.Thereason isthattheinstantaneOusfeesurfaceis1owerthanthe staticfreesurfaceandthenonlinearityisdecreasedby exponentialindexwithdecreasingofwater1eve1. ().12
008
;
0.04
0
—
004 .
(){)8
.
0.I2 56
tfs l() Fig.7TimeseriesofextremewavecrestwithA10.0875m
0
.
02
—
04
E06 .
0.8 ?
I.f) .
I2
.
I4
,
-
,
T
RWl O()20406(}.8
',l/m/s
Fig.8Distributionoftheextremevelocityfieldbeneaththe highestcrestwithAt=0.0875m
0?l2
0.08
0.04
堇0
-
(I.04
.
0.08
.
0l2
Fig.9TimeseriesofextremewavetroughwithAI=一0.0875m
Figs.11and12aretheextremecrestcaseastheinput amplitudeisfurtherincreasedtoAI=0.12m.Inthiscase, TENGBin.elalAsimplifiedmodelforextreme-wavetdnematicsindeepsea
,,-/Ills
Fig.10Distributionoftheextremevelocityfieldbeneaththe lowesttroughwith,=一O.0875m
theperiodandinputamplitudeofthefifth.orderStokes regularwaveareT=1.1655sandA=0.1221m
respectively,andthelinearinputamplitudeisAI=A= 0.148m.FromFig.11.itcanbeseenthatthepresent modeldescribestheextremecrestverywel1.Fig.12gives thecomparisonsofthevelocityfieldbeneaththegreatest cresttothefullynonlinearnumericalresults.thepresent. 1inearandthird—ordersolutions.Thethird.orderStokes solutionisobtainedfromthemethodofGrueetal【刮and
markedas'3rd—SRWT'inthefigure.inwhichtheperiod iscorrespondingto1.14s.Exceptthelinearsolutions.the othersagreewellwithoneanotherandonlyalittle diflferenceexistsbetweenthethird.orderoneandthefully nonlinearresultsinthescope0.2ms<v<0.5ms,.
O.12
OO8
O-O4
詈0
-
O-O4
_
OO8
Ol2
Fig.1lTimeseriesofextremewavecrestwithA,=0.12m I~/IllS
Fig.12Distributionoftheextremevelocityfieldbeneaththe highestcrestwithA,:0.12m
JournalofMarineScienceandApplicaton(2009)8:27—32
Furtherworkiscarriedouttovalidatetheproposedmodel bycomparisonwithexperimenta1data【JJ.Thephysical
modelwasmadeinaflumewithwaterdepth0.7m.input waveperiodsvaryingfrom0.8sto1.2s:thewavegroup iscomposedof29wavecomponents.TWocasesfkh>3.01 withinputamplitudeAI=0.038mand0.055m
respectivelyareconsidered.Fromthetimeseriesof experimentalwaveelevations(inFigs.6(b)and(c)from Ref.tu),thecorrespondingperiodsandinputamplitudes ofthefifth.orderStokeswavearef=0.9521s.Af 0.04268m)and(T=0.943s,A5=0.06257m)respectively.
Theexperimentalresultswereeverusedtovalidatethe linearandsecond.orderirregularanalyticalsolutionsby BaldocketalUJ.Theirregularsolutionsarealsousedto comparewiththeproposedmodeIinthepresentstudy. Figs.13-16givethecomparisonsofwaveelevation historyandvelocityfieldbeneaththeextremecrestfor thesetwocases.FromFigs.13and15.itcanbeseenthat theproposedmodeldescribestheextremewavecrest abovemeanwaterlevelverywel1.InFig.14.theresults ontheproposedmode1andtwoirregularwavetheoriesall agreewellwithexperimenta1resultsbecauseofsmaller wavenonlinearitY.InFig.16.theirregularwavetheories cannotpredictextremevelocityfieldwell,especially nearthefreesurface,withstrongernonlinearity.However, theproposedmodelstillshowsagoodagreementwith experiment.
006
O.O2
O
-
O.O2
AA
V
}Ij}IIllIIJ{liIIIl;Ijl'
005I.01.S
t/s
Fig.13TimeseriesofextremewavecrestwithAI=0,038m v/ms
Fig.14Distributionoftheextremevelocityfieldbeneaththe highestcrestwithAt=0.038m
O.O6
O?O2
0
-
0.02
.
O.06
}AA
一
1.51O-O.5OO.51.O1.5
t/s
Fig.15TimeseriesofextremewavecrestwithAt=0.055m v/ms.
Fig.16Distributionoftheextremevelocityfieldbeneaththe highestcrestwithAt0.055m
4Conclusions
Thispaperproposesasimplifiedmodelwhichis developedbasedonthefiRh.orderStokeswavetheory, forpredictingtheextreme.wavevelocityfieldindeepsea. Inthemodelupanddownzero.crossingmethodsare usedtoobtaintwoneighboringwaveperiodscontaining extremewavecrestor~oughandtheaverageofthemis takenastheregularwaveperiodrepresentingtheextreme wave.Thusthecorrespondinginputwaveamplitudecan bededucedbysubstitutingthemeasuredextreme.wave valueintothefifth—orderStokeswaveelevationformula sothatthevelocityfieldbeneaththeex仃emewavecanbe
directlycalculatedfromthefifth.orderStokeswave velocityexpression.Thecomparisonswiththefully nonlinearnumericalresults.theexperimentaldataand
someotheranalyticalsolutionsshowthattheproposed modelcandescribeextremewaveverywellandhasa goodpredictionfortheextremewavevelocityfield.The proposedmodelresortsonlytothewaverecord,which makesitmoreeasilyapplicabletooceanengineering practice.
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『?
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