21st_Century_Bodies

Technological developments and space exploration continue with unabated enthusiasm yet the science of the body remains a much more controversial frontier. Advances in medicine could potentially lead to immortality. Self-healing skin, the ability to re-grow severed limbs and the implantation of artificial aids brings us ever closer to hybridization; where man and machine merge. Surgeon Anthony Atala is the director of the Wake Forest Institute of Regenerative Medicine, where his work focuses on growing and regenerating tissues and organs. He has also developed a 3-D printer that can use living cells to output a transplantable kidney. Smart textiles could make fashion a biological process, where clothing is grown and cultured, and then infused with extremely high-tech features. These developments signal an unlimited future for human design. Studies in genetics first began in the mid-19th century and in the past decade major advances have been made in the manipulation of DNA. Doctors and physicians are currently attempting to isolate genes and then reproduce them using stem cell research. This type of development could mean an end to long- term illnesses like diabetes or fatal diseases like cancer. In the near future, newborn babies will be genotyped to reveal their genetic vulnerabilities. Genetic screening is becoming cheaper and more accessible for parents and could predict which diseases the child would be sensitive to throughout their lives. The 23andMe company offers a genome sequencing service where patients can be alerted to their disease risk factors and predict their response to drugs. Certain diseases could be partially prevented through modified diets and medication. Regenerative medicine is rapidly evolving and will soon have the potential to change people!s lives. Molly Stevens is Professor of Biomedical Materials and Regenerative Medicine at Imperial College, London. One of her products has been approved by the EU for use in human medicine. The compound can be implanted in a living bone to encourage the cells to repair damage. Organs can also be tailor-made for the individual, eliminating the problem of high-risk transplants. Transplanted lungs are notoriously poor at regeneration and donor supplies are often rejected, making engineered lungs a viable possibility. A product by Auger-Loizeau has entertainment functions. A wireless receiver could be inserted into any molar using dental surgery. The implant can receive digital information that can then be transmitted into radio signals that transport directly from the tooth to the ear. Music could be played from the device or it could act as an updater with information on anything from news and weather to stock exchange markets. Artist!s commentary is expected given the implications of new scientific developments. Oron Catts and Ionat Zurr founded the Tissue Culture & Art (TC&A) project as a reaction to the innovation in living tissues. They have created autonomous products made of living cells that are not replacements for body parts. In 2000, they established SymbioticA, a collaborative artistic laboratory that hosts artists, scientists and philosophers who are developing new biological arts. Victimless Leather was a project by TC&A that represented a small-scale prototype of a leather jacket grown in-vitro. This project questioned the use of animal skins and if in fact this material can be considered "semi-living". The Micro!be! project investigates the practical and cultural biosynthesis of microbiology to explore forms of futuristic textile technologies. Donna Franklin and Gary Cass collaborated on this project to create a material that grows through bacterial wine fermentation thus creating a new form of biological clothing. Touch technology is expanding to incorporate the skin, with potential for use in medical treatments, cosmetics and entertainment. Fashion designer, Nancy Tilbury imagines the future of fashion for 2050 in a film entitled Digital Skins Body Atmospheres. High-tech, ingestible particles could form functional and decorative features. Electric nanobots that travel through the veins could generate color and light under the skin. Peter Allen and Carla Ross Allen co-founded KnoWear design studio in 2000. They have a fresh approach to branding and believe that by 2021 consumers will implant designed body parts that are genetically coded and bear the hallmarks of the brand. Ph.D. student, Chris Harrison at Carnegie Mellon!s Human-Computer Interaction Institute, has developed Skinput, which turns the human body into a touch screen. This technology has far-reaching possibilities, meaning humans could type emails or do any current computer functions by just tapping on their hand or arm. Frog Design has developed a concept known as Dattoos. These imprinted designs would essentially signify the merger of man and machine. Dattoos would offer DNA-reader and identification technology, nanosensors, full voice interaction and bionic nanochips, just like having a computer embedded in your arm. Tattoos have been traditionally used as a form of personal expression and this concept is becoming more prevalent due to the decoding of the human genome. People are seeking to define their individuality as a backlash against being defined by their genetic makeup. The Electronic Tattoo film by Philips Design expresses the visual aspect of sensitive technology. Stimulated by touch, the tattoo traverses slowly across the landscape of the body. The pattern forms in response to desire and emotion, thus bringing the senses into play. Bare Conductive has invented non-toxic ink that can be safely used on the human body. Developed as a soft interface for electronic devices, Bare Conductive paint conducts small electrical signals to run across the surface of the skin. It is also water-soluble, so it can be easily washed off. This technology has so far been popular in the music industry. Using the human body as an instrument is an example of how this paint can have practical and inventive uses. DJ Calvin Harris used a giant human synthesizer to perform his single, “Ready for the Weekend”. The Humanthesizer is the result of a collaborative project between Sony Music, Calvin Harris and Bare Conductive. 34 pads were painted with conductive ink and connected to a computer. The performers stand on the pads and connect with each other through touch to complete the circuit and trigger a sound. Portable electronics in the future could be powered using electricity generated by body movements, eliminating the need for batteries or electrical outlets. Nanotechnology will be a key feature of these integrated and automated functions. Georgia Tech!s Zhong Lin Wang recently announced the first viable nanogenerator that converts pressure into energy. These nanogenerators could use automatic bodily functions like the pulse or actions like squeezing the fingers as energy sources. The Nano Supermarket presented a series of concepts that could be viable within the next 10 years. One such product, the NanoLift allows consumers to change their face on a daily basis. Firstly, a grid of tiny magnetic nanoparticles needs to be injected into the skin at a cosmetic surgery clinic. Then, the particles can be adjusted at home using a magnetic stick. The quest for perfection has lead people to choose extreme measures for body and face enhancement. From Euclid!s golden ratio to the Marquardt Mask, the definition of beauty remains an elusive thing. Artist Erwin Olaf mocks the rise in body modification with his provocative photographs. Several smartphone apps are making surgery more accessible to the average consumer. Build My Bod is an app developed by a plastic surgeon that can find and price the right procedures for the client. The client can also have direct contact with doctors in their area. More apps are coming on stream daily and can offer a wide range of services; such as, comparing before and after shots, digitally modifying the users facial and body features and consulting with doctors. Similarly, SurgeonHouseCall.com offers users a 3-D procedure library, pre-consultations with plastic surgeons and an online forum for discussion. As previously mentioned, fashion designer, Nancy Tilbury experiments with textiles and technology. In her own words, she creates design experiences in the field of intimate body technologies. She has worked as a consultant for Philips Design, in collaboration with other experts on interdisciplinary projects. Tilbury believes that digital cosmetics are set to become big business; modifiable irises and QR-coded fingernails could allow users to switch colors and styles as they wish. The Digital Cosmetic Mirror by Shiseido allows users to test makeup virtually. Augmented reality technology means a camera can scan the client!s face, compute a list of tailored recommendations and apply makeup on the face in real-time for instant viewing. Textile designer, Amy Congdon, is developing a future where the worlds of biotech and textiles become one. She envisions a time when we will be able to grow our own fashion through biotechnology, 3-D printing and digital embroidery. Biological Atelier by Congdon is a design project that investigates the relationship between humans and their bodies. Digital embroidery already has uses in the medical world and along with 3-D printing, allows cells to be printed onto textile scaffolds, creating living structures. Amy Congdon examines what these developments will mean for the future of fashion and design. Similarly, Biojewellery was a project by a group from the Royal College of Art. Bone tissue was cultured and then seeded onto a bioactive ceramic scaffold, allowing the bone to grow. Couples donated bone cells so the eventual piece of jewelry contained bone from the individual!s partner, bringing a new level of intimacy to jewelry design. The world is becoming increasingly populated yet societies have not yet planned properly for the potential problems this will create. According to the U.N. we need to produce 70% more food in the next 40 years. Climate crises, the possibilities of drought and famine and the waste of resources mean this will be a near impossible task. Designers Dunne & Raby have commented on this unsustainable future by suggesting alternatives to growing and ingesting food. Their project, entitled Foragers, envisages survival scenarios where humans would need to extract nutritional value from non-human food substances using a combination of synthetic biology and new digestive devices. The lack of regular food would force the human race to become more resourceful and to develop tools that would allow grass, trees and even dust to become nutritional components. Body-distorting jewelry continues this theme for personal modification. Unlike surgery, jewelry can alter the body in a provocative way for just a temporary period. Dutch designer Imme van der Haak has created gold-plated brass accessories that reinvent the concept of jewelry. Pieces that hold fingers bent, open nostrils and encircle the ear sarcastically comment on contemporary beauty trends. Skintile by Philips Design is an Electronic Sensing Jewelry device. These new jewelry concepts use wireless, adhesive body sensors that are playful and sensual and could integrate energy supply and display. Moloudi Hadji!s toothbrush piercing could represent the evolution of jewelry. Acting as a tongue piercing and a toothbrush in one, the adornment nods to the efficiency of new, experimental tools. The future of gaming lies with the limits of the individual!s imagination. The focus on machines and technology will shift, putting the user in control of every function and setting. Natural user interface is a concept whereby gaming and entertainment systems can recognize voice commands, track movements in real time and respond to desires immediately. With the rise in full-body gaming and fully immersive experiences, Marc Owens designed a wearable device, called Avatar Machine to simulate the experience of virtual gaming. With the aid of goggles, the user can view themselves as a virtual character, thus recreating the gaming environment. Microsoft Research Cambridge is a lab dedicated to computer research. Teams have been investigating and developing better methods of making the body readable and trackable. The Harlequin Move-Tracker applies different colored pixels to each body part, allowing researchers to train a computer to track movement in real time and predict the following moves. By taking away the controller in the use of technology, developers are opening up the concept of brain control. Without a remote, buttons or physical connectors, humans could potentially choose entertainment, play games, learn to play a musical instrument, or even drive without actually touching any controls. Brainwave readers are the next generation of personal technology. PLX Devices has developed an app for the iPhone called the Xwave that allows the user to control and monitor their own brainwaves and interact with their iPhone through thoughts rather than actions. Used in conjunction with the Neurosky headset, brainwaves are detected and then translated into commands. Inventor, Steve Mann has been described as “the world!s first cyborg” for his regular use of augmented eyewear. The entertainment industry is benefiting from smart materials and technology-infused clothing. Bart Hess designed the slime art costumes for Lady Gaga!s video, “Born This Way”, evoking the biologically grown processes. On the stage, electronic devices can enhance light shows and special effects. Katy Perry!s recent performance on American Idol showcased an illuminated sci-fi warrior catsuit. Cute Circuit creatives Ryan Genz and Francesca Rosella were behind the intergalactic light show. Previously, Rihanna performed in a LED dress, designed by Moritz Waldemeyer. Anouk Wipprecht designed the outfit worn by Fergie at this year!s Superbowl. The chest-piece was designed with flashing LEDs while the illuminating shoes used Luminex, a non-reflective material that emits its own light. These international protagonists are helping to communicate the possible potentials of electronic textiles. Augmented reality is becoming a feature of the fashion industry. The London based fashion studio, Cassette Playa, presented a collection using augmented reality software and projections. Each look in the collection featured embedded digital codes with an associated virtual look. A webcam was also used to stream the show onto a projection screen with an AR overlay. Louis Vuitton has raised the bar by allowing viewers to virtually attend the seasonal fashion shows. F/W 11 is currently online and viewers can watch the show from the front row. This type of show could have many potential uses in future fashion presentations or even in retail. Smartphone apps can already allow the consumer to virtually try on items before purchase and this could extend across all consumer industries. Di Mainstone is an artist and an inventor. Her wearable body art comprises sculptural forms with kinetic properties, musical features and sensory skins. These playful expressions merge fashion, technology and performance to create a new art form. The Serendiptichord is a wearable musical instrument. Its architectural shape and soft fabrication encourage touch and playfulness. The Sharewear concept was worn by identical twins in a performance that commented on the desire to be surrounded by homely possessions. The dresses were unpacked and built around the body, representing hidden secrets and new landscapes. The Peggy-Sue is a tessellated 2-D structure that can transform and redefine the human shape. These inventions encourage inquisitive discovery and question the relationship between the body and surrounding objects. XS Labs was founded in 2002 by Joanna Berzowska and is a design research studio that develops innovative methods and applications in electronic textiles and responsive garments. The team combines traditional textile manufacture with contemporary materials featuring electro-mechanical properties. These second skins can interact with the environment and the individual. Similarly, Jennifer Darmour set up Electricfoxy to develop electronic textiles. An Electricfoxy product called Ping is a garment that connects wirelessly to Facebook. Likewise the Zip product is a garment that that has inbuilt music controls. Rather than embedding music hardware into the clothing, Zip integrates the controls into the gestures that we already perform with our clothing. Tine Beez launched an activewear collection called Fashion Meets Technology. The collection was inspired by mountaineer George Mallory and aims to be comfortable, protective and functional. Made completely from natural fibers, the latest and most innovative nanotechnology acts as an added enhancement. Natural healing substances such as milk pearl and aloe vera help moisturize the skin and stimulate blood circulation. Nanotechnology is used to enhance wind protection and waterproofing in the outer layers without changing the fabric!s natural properties. Shock absorbent pads are integrated for safety and protection. Pseudomorphs is a system, developed by Anouk Wipprecht that allows dresses to paint themselves. An electronic accessory was constructed from repurposed medical equipment and custom designed electronics that allow the paint to drip organically onto the dress. Similarly, Christopher Kane used textiles filled with liquid to create his F/W 11 collection. The end result was plastic materials filled with a colorful mix of vegetable oil and glycerin. Similarly, Lucy McRae!s innovative body architecture was used for Robyn!s “Indestructible” music video. 1.2 km of transparent plumbing tubing was knitted together while 40 liters of glycerol were pumped through. Gradient colors pulsed through the tubes at different speeds, creating the appearance of a living skin that breathes and travels across the landscape of the body. The body is becoming an art form in new and exciting ways. Showstudio recently began a project to capture women of commanding beauty. Daphne Guinness was a feature of this elite group and her iconic face was scanned with lasers to create a 3-D model and exact replica. Emilio Gomariz creates stunning 3-D animations using body parts as multiplied motifs. The work, entitled Extremities, is based in 3-D collages and the parts are placed to create loop animations, with an infinity effect. The video installation by Bart Hess for the National Glasmuseum in the Netherlands was an experimental take on the modification of the body. Called Echo, the film piece combines fluid movements and an exploration of volumes to investigate ways to reshape the body. Hess! imagery captures future human shapes and the morphing with non-human materials. Whether vertiginous, sculptural or barely there, shoes are becoming the benchmark for future innovation in fashion design. Nancy Tilbury!s forward-thinking fantasies envision shoes that can be self-grown onto the foot while Caroline Sciancalepore!s blocky mounds seem like glacial formations. Jan Taminiau !s curious and complicated footwear is futurism at its finest. Contoured and sculpted heels keep the wearer well elevated while draped jewels reinforce the drama of couture. Nike!s Footsticker employs all the characteristics of bare feet. Without shoes the foot has better motion control, and direct contact with the ground while the flexible material feels like a second skin. Special glues are also being developed to ensure adhesion during sweating. Immortality still remains an