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首页 [奢侈品牌营销].Uche.Okonkwo.扫描版.pdf

[奢侈品牌营销].Uche.Okonkwo.扫描版.pdf

[奢侈品牌营销].Uche.Okonkwo.扫描版.pdf

上传者: 手机1653218417 2011-10-24 评分 0 0 0 0 0 0 暂无简介 简介 举报

简介:本文档为《[奢侈品牌营销].Uche.Okonkwo.扫描版pdf》,可适用于人文社科领域,主题内容包含LuxuryFashionBrandingTrends,Tactics,TechniquesUcheOkonkwoluxuryfashionbran符等。

LuxuryFashionBrandingTrends,Tactics,TechniquesUcheOkonkwoluxuryfashionbrandingluxuryfashionbrandingtrends,tactics,techniquesUcheOkonkwoUcheOkonkwoForewordJamesOgilvyAllrightsreservedNoreproduction,copyortransmissionofthispublicationmaybemadewithoutwrittenpermissionNoparagraphofthispublicationmaybereproduced,copiedortransmittedsavewithwrittenpermissionorinaccordancewiththeprovisionsoftheCopyright,DesignsandPatentsAct,orunderthetermsofanylicencepermittinglimitedcopyingissuedbytheCopyrightLicensingAgency,TottenhamCourtRoad,LondonWTLPAnypersonwhodoesanyunauthorizedactinrelationtothispublicationmaybeliabletocriminalprosecutionandcivilclaimsfordamagesTheauthorhasassertedherrighttobeidentifiedastheauthorofthisworkinaccordancewiththeCopyright,DesignsandPatentsActFirstpublishedbyPALGRAVEMACMILLANHoundmills,Basingstoke,HampshireRGXSandFifthAvenue,NewYork,NYCompaniesandrepresentativesthroughouttheworldPALGRAVEMACMILLANistheglobalacademicimprintofthePalgraveMacmillandivisionofStMartin’sPress,LLCandofPalgraveMacmillanLtdMacmillanisaregisteredtrademarkintheUnitedStates,UnitedKingdomandothercountriesPalgraveisaregisteredtrademarkintheEuropeanUnionandothercountriesISBN:––––ISBN:–––ThisbookisprintedonpapersuitableforrecyclingandmadefromfullymanagedandsustainedforestsourcesLogging,pulpingandmanufacturingprocessesareexpectedtoconformtotheenvironmentalregulationsofthecountryoforiginAcataloguerecordforthisbookisavailablefromtheBritishLibraryAcatalogrecordforthisbookisavailablefromtheLibraryofCongressPrintedinChinaThisbookisformymotherRhodaAdaOkonkwo,fromwhomIlearntthatqualityandsubstancearealwaysbetterthanquantityandsizeContentsListoftablesandfiguresxForewordbyJamesOgilvyxvAuthor’snotexviiAcknowledgementsxixIntroduction:whosaidfashionisnotseriousbusinessAquestionofluxuryWhat’sinanameThehistoryofluxuryfashionbrandingBrandingevolutionOriginsofluxuryfashionEarlycivilizationfashion(BCtoBC)FromEgypttoCreteandGreece(BCtoBC)TheEtruscanandRomanfashioninfluence(BCtoAD)FromRometotheByzantineEmpireandtheMiddleAges(AD~to~)TheRenaissance,Italyandfashion(thandthcenturies)SeventeenthcenturybaroquefashionTheeighteenthcentury,FranceandluxuryfashionThenineteenthcenturyandmodernluxuryfashionTheriseoftheyankeesThetwentiethcenturyfashionexplosionThesixtiesTheseventiesTheeightiesTheninetiesThenoughtiesandbeyondThedolcevitastyleblastAmerica,fashionandcommerceTheluxurybrandindexCharlesFrederickWorth:LePèredelahautecoutureModernbusinessprinciplesGreatmomentsinthehistoryoffashionApassionforfashion:theluxuryfashionconsumerTheconsumeriskingTheconsumerpurchasedecisionprocessWhoistheluxuryfashionconsumerviiThetwentyfirstcenturyfashionconsumptionenvironmentLuxuryconsumermarketindicatorsThefutureluxuryfashionconsumerStrategicimplicationsforluxurybrandsLuxuryretaildesignandatmosphereLuxuryretaillocationStoreconceptRetailextensionProductmerchandizingdesignNewsellingtechniquesThecaseofdesigneroutletshoppingvillagesTheartofcreatingandmanagingluxuryfashionbrandsWhatisbranding,reallyBrandingbenefitsLuxuryfashionbrandingstrategydevelopmentThebrandconceptThebrandidentityBrandawarenessBrandpositioningBrandloyaltyBrandequityBrandvalueTheluxuryfashionmarketingstrategyTheproductPricingTheplaceofdistributionPromotionThecelebrityconnectionPeoplePositioningTheconfusionandclarificationoffashioncobrandingThemenaceoffakeluxurygoodsTheluxurybrandingdeathwishlistDigitalluxuryThecaseforeretailEretailindicatorsEretailattributesTheinternetasaretaillocationOnlineluxuryfashionconsumerbehaviourLuxuryfashioneretailstrategyAreluxuryfashionproductssuitableforeretailingEretailstrategyoptionsLuxuryfashionemarketingandebrandingstrategyEmarketingstrategyTheCsofluxuryfashionemarketingEbrandingstrategyWebsiteandestoredesignEmerchandizingviiicontentsFinalnotesTheluxuryeretaildeathwishlistLenewluxeAdifferentfashionlandscapeTheeffectsofthechangingenvironmentTheriseofthemassesFromfastfashiontothrowawayfashionTrendwatching,trendtrackingandluxuryservicesThenewluxurybrandsAccessibleluxuryIntangibleluxuryAborderlineidentitySowhoarethetrueluxurybrandsHowthefuturelooksCustomizeme!WhatiscustomizationWhowantstobecustomizedWhatarethebenefitsofcustomizationHowcanluxurybrandscustomizegoodsandservicesCustomizingstandardizedproductsPointofdeliverycustomizationCustomizingtheretailshoppingexperienceProducingbespokegoodsCustomizingtheonlineexperienceAllowingtheconsumertocustomizetheprocessWhatarethechallengesofcustomizationTheluxuryfashionbusinessstrategymodelWhatisabusinessstrategymodelThebusinessstrategymodellingprocessEndnotesCaseillustrationsTheArmanibrandextensionsuccessstoryTheboomandbustofboocomTheeffectoflicensingonPierreCardin’sbrandequityIsAndréRossthefirsttwentyfirstcenturyluxurybrandWhatdoes‘Britishness’meaninluxuryfashionReferencesIndexixcontentsListoftablesandfiguresTablesLuxuryfashionbrandsindexTheGlobalLuxuryBrandValueScoreboard(–)ThemajorluxuryfashionconglomeratesTheeffectofInternetfeaturesonconsumersTheES(electronicshopping)testDosanddon’tsofwebsitedesignFiguresCharlesFrederickWorth,themanwhoinventedhautecoutureandlaterbecamethefirstfashionentrepreneurAdesignofWorthshowinghiselaboratestyleandattentiontodetailAcurrentlingeriedesignfromrecentlylaunchedbrandCourtworth,anattemptatrevivingtheWorthfashionhouseConsumershaveevolvedfromtheprevioustagof‘Sheep’tothecurrenttagof‘Smart’!ThethreeinfluentiallevelsoftheconsumerdecisionmakingprocessAvenuedesChampsElysées,Paris,aluxuryretailheavenStorelayoutsLeBonMarchédepartmentalstore,ParisTheAndréRossstoreexterior,HongKongVanessaBeecroftexhibitionposteratL’EspaceLouisVuitton,Paris,JanuarytoMarchBraziliancarnivalinstoreentertainmentatPrintempsluxurydepartmentalstore,Paris,AprilThestorewindowdisplayofluxurydepartmentstore,Harrod’sKnightsbridge,London,April,ThestorewindowdisplayofmassfashionbrandHMatKnightsbridge,London,AprilxLuxurydepartmentstore,GaleriesLafayette,Paris,maintainsconsistencybetweenitsinteriorandexteriordesignsLouisVuitton’screativegiantmonogramtrunkfaçadecoveringtherenovationworkatitsParisChampsElyséesflagshipstore,Cartier’sgiantreplicaofitspackagingbox,coveringthereconstructionworkatitsParisRuedelaPaixstore,Discountshoppingoutlet,BicesterVillage,nearLondon,LaValléeVillagediscountoutletvillage,nearParis,TheDiorlogohasevolvedfromChristianDiortosimply‘Dior’,depictingamodernoutlookTheBrandPersonalityModelofJenniferAakerTheluxuryfashionbrandpositioningmapTheluxuryfashionbrandingprocessThemajorluxuryfashionproductdivisionsTheluxuryfashionproductclassificationTheLuxuryFashionProductClassificationusingtheBCGMatrixTheChloéPaddingtonbagnamedafterthePaddingtonareaofLondonTheAndréRosssignatureChampsElyséesbag,namedafterParis’AvenuedesChampsElyséesTheLouisVuittonclassicSpeedybaginthebrand’ssignaturemonogramTheMulberrysignatureRoxannebagTheHermèsclassicBirkinbagnamedafteractressJaneBirkinTheGucciJackiebagnamedafterUSformerfirstladyJackieKennedyTheextendedstrategicpricingmodelTheverticalchaindistributionsystemadoptedbyluxurybrandsWhodoluxurybrandstargetwhentheychoosebusstands,trainstationsandstreetbillboardsasadvertisingmedia,suchasthesefoundindifferentFrenchandUnitedKingdomcitiesBurberryemphasisingitsEnglishheritagethroughusingaBritishactresstodepictthequintessentialEnglishlifestyle()TheDiorCrystalWatchadvertisement(),whichfocusesontheproductfeaturesanddesigntoaccentuateitsluxurystatusxilistoftablesandfiguresTheEmporioArmanieyewearadvertisement()Furla’sadvertisementfeaturingemployeeDanielaBernardi()OscardeLaRenta(Spring)advert,featuringLiyaKebede,effectivelycapturesthebrand’sessenceofstylishandmodernchicUmaThurmanforLouisVuitton()JenniferLopezforLouisVuitton()ThepositioningmapEretailattributesLouisVuittonStoresarefoundinexclusiveluxurylocationsliketheSandtonCityShoppingCentreinSouthAfrica()LouisVuitton’s‘exclusive’onlinestorefortheEuropeanmarketThefourphaseonlinecustomerExperienceHierarchyTheprocessoferetailstrategydevelopmentTheeretailstrategicoptionsRobertoCavalliatYooxcom(May)TheDioronlineboutique(October)TheAndréRossonlineboutique(August)Glamcomprovidesacombinationoffashion,celebrity,trendsandstylesnewswithdirectlinkstoeretailthewebsites(May)DioronlinestoreisavailableintheFrench,UKandGermanmarketsandintheUSAthrougheluxurycom(Spring)Armani’sUSonlyonlinestoreretailsfragrancecosmeticsandtimepieceshowever,Armaniproductsaresoldonseveralotherindependentwebsites(Spring)Eluxurycom’slivechatfacilityprovidesinstantshoppingassistanceinanefficientmanner(June)AnyaHindmarch’swebsiteprovidestoolsforproductcustomization,whichbooststheoverallwebexperienceandenhancescustomervalue(Summer)TheDiorwebsitecapturesthebrandessencethroughitsdesignandfunctionalityfeatures(May)Vuittoncom(Spring)Vuittoncom(Spring)Vuittoncom(Spring)Vuittoncom(Autumn)Diorcom‘sonlinevideoclipofitsfashionshow()TheFurlahomepageusesappropriatesoundthatisalignedtothebrand’spersonality(August)xiilistoftablesandfiguresRoyalElasticshomepagecreatesahighimpactintroductionwithmusicthataccentuatesitsbrandaura(August)Yooxcom’sinteractiveandmultipleproductviewpresentationandonlineCRMenhancesthewebshoppingexperiencethroughboostingusabilityandatmosphereandcompensatingfortheabsenceofahumanpresence(August)MilaandEddieprovidesdesignerbagrentalservicesThisaddressesthe‘throwawayfashion’attitudeofconsumers(August)Theluxuryindustry’sleadinginformationsource,LuxuryBriefingJournal,isavailableonlybysubscriptionthroughwwwluxurybriefingcomQuintessentially,theworld’sleadingprivatemembersclubandconciergeservice,providesluxuryconsumerswithuptodateluxuryfashionandlifestyleinformationthroughtheQuintessentiallymagazineThepreviousmarkethierarchystructureoftheluxurygoodssectorinrelationtocustomerstratainthesocietyDenimbrandLevi’sprovidesmasscustomizedproductservicesthroughitsinnovative‘Jeanfinder’featureonitswebsite(May)TheLouisVuittonPassybagexistsinonematerialandtwocolour,sizeandpricechoices,limitingconsumerstoastandardizedproductThechangesthatoccurinthevaluechainduringthecustomizationofstandardizedproductsandservicesThechangesthatoccurinthevaluechainduringthecreationofcustomizableproductsandservicesAppleprovidespointofsalecustomizationthroughanonlinetooltopersonalizetheiPodbeforepurchasefromitswebsite,wwwapplecom(June)TheindividualcharmsoncertainproductssuchasLouisVuittonjewelleryareeasilycustomizablebyconsumersatthepointofsaleordeliverytoaddaspecialtouchtocustomerexperienceThevaluechainchangesinthepointofsalecustomizationofproductsandservicesChangesinthevaluechainduringthecreationofcustomizableproductsandservicesAnyaHindmarchprovidesoneofthemostefficientbespokeservicesintheluxurysector,throughtheBespokeEbury(above)andtheBeABag(notshown)collectionsThechangesinthevaluechainduringtheprovisionofbespokeproductsandservicesxiiilistoftablesandfiguresThechangesinthevaluechainduringtheonlineexperiencecustomizationofproductsandservicesThechangesinthevaluechainduringtheconsumercustomizationofproductsandservicesTheenvironmentalanalysislevelsofbusinessmodellingThecurrentsituationanalysisleveloftheluxuryfashionbusinessmodelThestrategicchallengeleveloftheluxuryfashionbusinessmodelThestrategyformulationleveloftheluxuryfashionbusinessmodelTheimplementationplanningleveloftheluxuryfashionbusinessmodelTheperformancemeasurementleveloftheluxuryfashionbusinessmodelTheluxuryfashionbusinessmodelTheArmanibrandportfolioTheArmanibrandextensionmodelAndréRossspringsummerproductcollectionandautumnwinteradvertisementsSomeofthekeyfactorsoftheBritishluxuryfashionrevolutionxivlistoftablesandfiguresForewordTheluxuryindustryisrelativelysmallintermsofthenumberofcompaniesTheboundariesarehardtodefine,butconsensuswouldprobablyindicatean‘industry’populatedbynomorethanseveralhundredbrandsHoweverthesebusinessespunchfarabovetheirweight,bothintermsofsales–currentestimatesputthesaleofluxurygoodsrunningatmorethan$bnperannum–andperhapsmoreimportantly,intermsofinfluenceThisistheindustrywhereyou’llfindthebestdesign,thebestmaterials,thebestmerchandizingandthebestpackaging,andhenceluxurybrandsfrequentlyleadthewayfortherestoftheworldIntheprocesstheydrivebothaspirationforthegenuinearticleandthenumerousmassmarketimitatorsWhilstofcourse‘luxury’haschangedlittleinanabstractsense,thewordisnow(mis)appliedtoallmannerofproductsTheterm‘masstige’hasbeencoinedtodescribeaplacewhere‘mass’and‘prestige’meetandthisdemocratizationofluxuryisprobablythegreatestchangeinthelastdecadeAlmostallluxurybrandsnowhaveproductsthatstartatlowpricepoints,whetheritisapairofsocksfromPoloRalphLauren,aTiffanykeyring,orevenaseriesBMWThisisbothtosecureaspirationalsalesandtoleadcustomersintothehighticketitemsThebiggestchallengefacingaluxurybrandtodayisdevisingastrategythatcancopewiththeextremesofthemodernluxurymarketplace,withaproductrangethatmayextendfrom$socksto$,couturepiecesandwhichmaybesellingbothtoShanghaisecretariesandParkAvenuePrincessesThisiswhereUcheOkonkwo’sbookcomesin:apracticalandessentialresourceforanyoneinvolvedinthebusinessofsellingluxuryfashionItwillofcoursebeusefulwellbeyondtheconfinesofthefashionindustry:aswehavelearnedovertheyearsfromourownsubscriberbase,thereisanextraordinarilywidevarietyofindividualswhowatchtheluxuryfashionindustryincludingthosefromalltheotherluxurysectorsaswellasadvertising,design,publicrelations,management,finance,property,theacademicsandthewiderbusinesscommunityEveryoneofthemwillfindsomethingofvalueinthisbookIstartedLuxuryBriefingjustoveradecadeagoandithasbeenanexcitingperiodfortheindustryButduringthattimethe‘landscape’,especiallyintheworldofluxuryfashion,hasbecomeevermorecomplexIhavelostcountofthenumberoftimesthatwehavebeenaskedforguidanceonallmannerxvofaspectsconnectedwithluxuryfashionsoIamdelightedthat–atlast–IhavearesourcetowhichIcanreferpeopleJAMESOGILVYPublisherLuxuryBriefingxviforewordAuthor’snoteIhaveauniqueneutralpositioninnothavingapedigreefromanyoftheluxurykeymarketsThisimpliesthatmyanalysisinpresentationoftheluxuryfashionsectorislikelytobehighlyobjectivePreviouswritersonthesubjectoffashionhaveoftenbeenaccusedofabiasedpointofviewinfavouroftheircountriesorthebrandsthatprovidethemwithfinancialbackingSoIhopethesewillbesomeofthecriticismsImightescapeHowever,Iapologiseinadvanceifafterreadingthisbook,youfeelthatithasaFrenchundertoneThisisprobablytheeffectofwriting‘àcôtédelaTourEiffel!’ThesecondadvantageIcanclaimisthatIliveinParisandwritingthisbookfromthefashioncapitaloftheworldprovidedmewithaccesstomajorbrandsandawealthofinvaluableresourcesthatImightnothavefoundelsewhereAlsothecentralgeographicalpositioningofParismeantthatIcouldeasilyaccesstherestofthefashioncentres:Milan,London,NewYork,FlorenceandeverywhereelsethatthebusinessoffashionhasresourcesTheideaforthisbookcamealmostasanaccident(everyauthorprobablysaysthistosoundmodest,eventhoughtheyhadbeenthinkingabouttheirbooksforages,butbelieveme,itwastrulyanaccident)TowardstheendofmyMBAstudiesatBrunelUniversityBusinessSchool,London,IchosetoconducttheobligatorybusinessmanagementconsultancyanddissertationprojectonthecorporatestrategyoftheluxuryfashionsectorThemajorityofmycolleaguesoptedfor‘serious’businesssectorsandtopicsrelatingtocorporatefinance,investmentbankingandglobaltradeWhiletheyhadafielddaywithabundantacademicandpractitionerresearchmaterials,IwasshuttlingbetweenLondon,ParisandMilanandfranticallyemail

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