美国的时尚摄影电子杂志canvas_04_black

THE BLACK ISSUE CANVAS MAGAZINE ISSUE 04 MAY 2008 BL:ND PAGE 3 BEGINNING OF THE TWIST PAGE 6 PAULA KYLE WALDEN PAGE 10 CECILIA CARLSTEDT PAGE 13 SHADOW BIRDS PAGE 18 ALEXENDRA OWEN PAGE 21 PAST AND PENDING PAGE 24 COPYRIGHT & DISCLAIMER Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission by Canvas is strictly prohibited. All information and credits are accurate at the time of publicatoin, but are subject to change. HTTP://CANVASMAGAZINE.NET © 2008 CANVAS MAGAZINE The use of black in fashion is a constant topic of discussion and forms the basis of this issue. Throughout history the meaning of black has been given multiple and contradictory meanings. It is the most conflicting colour of all and yet it represents the absence of colour. Black can be serious, conservative and conventional, yet mysterious, alluring and sophisticated. It can be both positive and negative and when we speak of opposites it’s usually as black and white, representing polarities. In the absence of colour, how does black affect the way we create, whether it is from the point of view of designer, photographer or artist? It becomes obvious that when the world is seen in black, form is forced to the forefront of our consciousness. Shapes, fabrics, and lines take on a perspective and depth that we might not recognise in colour. This issue is our most exciting yet. We’ve sought out designers who use black to form the basis for creative inspiration. In an exclusive with New Zealand designer Alexandra Owen we re-interpret the ideas of her collection by paying homage to artist Bill Hammond, a major source of Alexandra’s inspiration for the coming summer. Look to page 21. CATHERINE MCPHEE EDITOR/CREATIVE DIRECTOR CREATIVE DIRECTOR/FOUNDER Catherine McPhee DESIGNER James Johnston EDITORIAL MANAGER Catherine McPhee FASHION DIRECTOR Catherine McPhee CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS MARTIN BLEASDALE NICk BLAIR kIRSTY DUCHET COVER PHOTOGRAPHY Nick Blair STYLING Sarah Banger HAIR Alana Holmes MAkEUP Shella Thomas MODEL Olivia G @ Scene THE BLACK ISSUE Can colour have a sound? Music is often described as vivid, brilliant and colourful – words that are associated with visual experiences. Yet without being too literal, how do you use colour for inspiration and music for emotion and convey that into a short film? This premise was given to U.S. motion design studio “BL:ND” by chainstore GAP to promote their Spring/Summer collection. Working with The Raveonettes, a nostalgic pop band who create sound in a unique fashion, BL:ND’s “Black and White” uses light and shadow to craft a richly textured physical and emotional landscape that explores the dichotomy of love, life and beauty. The fairy-tale inspired story unfolds through the use of animation and shadow puppetry, as the characters are given life in a two-dimensional characters world, always underpinned by the evocative and lingering vocals of The Raveonettes. Given only three weeks to complete the project from initial concept to end-result, the team at BL: ND created a beautiful, visual exploration of the polarities of black and white. We spoke with founder and Executive Creative Director of Blind, Chris Do to find out more about the film. BL:ND SOUND OF BLACk AND WHITE CANVAS: WHERE DID THE CONCEPT fOR yOuR SOuND Of COlOR fIlM COME fROM? CHRIS DO: What is cool about Black and White is that it can be defined or viewed in a number of ways beyond its pure chromatic representation. In addition to being purely a formal expression of light & shadow, black and white can be seen as opposing or contradictory forces, explored as the underlying theme of the narrative, i.e. love/hate, life/death, daydream/nightmare, young/old, prey/predator, and ugliness/beauty. I’m interested in exploring both of these notions, especially in the way that light can define and alter our perception of images. Two art forms come to mind in which light and shadow can create the illusion of something beyond what is immediately represented. One is the ancient Chinese art form of shadow puppetry or shadow theatre, where opaque, articulated figures move in front of an illuminated backdrop to create the illusion of moving images. Here, light and shadow can impart new meaning to the subject matter. HOW DETAIlED WAS yOuR BRIEf? The brief was very open. There were some ground rules: nothing pornographic, racists or overtly political, and refreshingly enough, the video shouldn’t be a performance piece for the band. Everything else was fair game. The one real objective was to “get people to think about color differently”, and in our case, more specifically black and white. Ultimately we had no choice in colour. However, we loved the Raveonettes track and weren’t shy about sharing that with the agency. DID yOu APPROACH THIS PROjECT ANy DIffERENTly gIVEN THE guIDElINES? It was challenging to come up with a concept given how open the brief was. This freed us up to write a pretty wild, fairy tale-like story. HOW ClOSEly DID yOu WORk WITH THE RAVEONETTES? Before any real concepts were formed, we jumped on the phone with Sune to talk to him about the band, his inspirations, the meaning of the song, as well as his take on “Black and White”. We gained some valuable insight that we then incorporated into our treatment. For example, Sune mentioned that he dislikes how people try to link he and Sharin in a romantic way. We were sensitive to that, so when we depicted the duo, we illustrated them as kids. IT WAS A TIgHT DEADlINE WITH ONly 3 WEEkS fOR THIS PROjECT. HOW MANy PEOPlE WERE INVOlVED fROM CONCEPT TO fINAl ONlINE HOW lONg DID THE PRODuCTION AND POST PRODuCTION TAkE? We had 3 weeks from when the Gap said go to when it delivered. The actual production time was shorter because we spent a few days generating concepts. From the point when a treatment was chosen, we had about 2 weeks. About 13 people were involved in the production of the video including 4 people from the Rogue Artist’s group (puppeteers). The core team for the duration of the project was 6 people. Head to http://www.blind.com/work/music-video/ for the complete film. STILL FRAMES FROM BL:ND’S SOUND OF BLACk AND WHITE FILM STILL FRAMES FROM BL:ND’S SOUND OF BLACk AND WHITE FILM PHOTOgRAPHy MARTIN BLEASDALE STylISTS CHARLOTTE EVANS & kYLIE JOHNSTON HAIR NICOLE THOMAS @ ORB MAkEuP REMI WOOD USING MAC MODEl LAUREN THE BEGINNING OF THE TWIST PREVIOUS THAkOON DRESS, TIGHTS & SOCkS STYLIST’S OWN, VIkTOR & ROLF SHOES THIS PAGE LITTLE TAILLEUR DRESS, kAREN WALkER SCARF, STOCkINGS AND SHOES STYLIST’S OWN, LITTLE TAILLEUR DRESS, HEATHER MCDONOUGH FOR SASS & BIDE RUFFLED WRAP, STOCkINGS STYLIST’S OWN, ALExANDER MCQUEEN SHOES PHILIP TREACY FASCINATOR, LANVIN DRESS AND SHOES MIU MIU CAPE, THE ROW PANTS, LANVIN SHOES DRAPE BACk DRESS ANON. BY BEN SMITH, GAIL SORRONDA APRON, AMERICAN APPAREL TIGHTS, VINTAGE BELT STYLIST’S OWN, ALExANDER MCQUEEN SHOES SEE BY CHLOE BLOUSE, TIGHTS STYLIST’S OWN Paula kyle Walden releases her first jewellery collection entitled ‘composing space’. Canvas was interested in her collection for the BLACk issue because of its pared back, organic feel. It is the way the collection makes use of the primary structural and material elements of jewellery design that had us drawing conclusions to the emergence of these pieces from primary matter. Jewellery from the void; emerging from the black, simply but dramatically. The collection has its basis in sterling silver moldings and apart from some beautifully sized gems set into some of the pieces the collection maintains this simple presentation; a hand-made brushed silver study in jewellery form and proportion. Speaking with Paula about the collection confirms that she enjoys to work with metal because it is of the earth. She also takes pleasure in working metal into something that we don’t necessarily need but making it into an object that we desire nonetheless. Paula explains her thought processes in putting the collection together as “composing innovative geometric space in the form of sculptural jewellery”. Trained in interior design straight out of high school she sites the formal training as the spark that ignited that creative instinct in her. Her jewellery collection certainly showcases this. She believes that the collection demonstrates a transition from interior to jewellery design and explains the individual pieces as architectural as well as industrial and sculptural. Her use of simple lines and shapes accentuates the dramatic effect of the pieces especially when coupled with the fine use of proportion. Paula has created exciting pieces that not only confirm but announce their space in time and are certainly objets du désir. PAULA KYLE WALDEN TExT ANDREW DWYER PHOTOGRAPHY MARTIN BLEASDALE PAULA kYLE WALDEN RING PAULA kYLE WALDEN RING Born in Stockholm in 1977, artist Cecilia Carlstedt has proven excessive training can result in a successful international career. Studying at The Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, majoring in Art history at the University of Stockholm and receiving Honors in a Bachelor of Arts in Graphic Design and Illustration, has provided the platform necessary for Cecilia to succeed. With fashion cliental including Bloomingdales, Swarovski, H&M, La Perla and renowned publications such as Glamour Magazine and Marie Claire publishing her creations, Cecilia’s accreditation is apparent. However, it is her ability to alter her techniques from piece to piece that sets her artwork apart from other fashion artists in her field. Whilst her work is immediately recognizable due to its sharp lines and dramatic shading, the artwork she creates for fashion companies and publications differs dramatically to the rest of her professional portfolio due to the use of colour. By using only achromatic colours; the tone of the artwork is immediately set, whilst reference is given to her fashion focused pieces. Black; associated with TExT CHARLOTTE EVANS power, space and luxury and white; associated with purity, innocence and empowerment are utilized in order of demonstrating sophistication, strength and purity for her fashion clientele. However, whilst Cecilia creates artwork for international fashion companies, it is apparent that her aim is not to sell a particular product, however to promote the company and the essence behind it. Her work is bold, powerful and captivating and without the use of colour to engage audiences, Cecilia Carlstedt continually manages to intrigue audiences internationally and gain the respect of renowned fashion companies due to her diverse training, artistic ability and point of difference. CECILIA CARLSTEDT ILLUSTRATIONS BY CECILIA CARLSTEDT ILLUSTRATION BY CECILIA CARLSTEDT ILLUSTRATION BY CECILIA CARLSTEDT ILLUSTRATION BY CECILIA CARLSTEDT SHADOW BIRDS PHOTOgRAPHER NICk BLAIR STylINg SARAH BANGER MAkE uP SHELLA THOMAS HAIR STylINg ALANA HOLMES MODElS OLIVIA G & REBECCA G @ SCENE RETOuCHINg NICk BLAIR & GIL GILMOUR P R EV IO U S O LI VI A : O B U S S H IR T, L IM ED R O P JA Ck ET , S ER EN A V A N D ER W O O D S EN L EG G IN G S , R EB EC CA : P IG EO N C O M B IN E T- S H IR T, O B U S D R ES S , S ER EN A V A N D ER W O O D S EN L EG G IN G S TH IS P A G E H U A J A Ck ET , B O D YS U IT S TY LI S T’ S O W N , S ER EN A V A N D ER W O O D S EN L EG G IN G S , D A N I M D ES IG N S N EC kL A CE O LI VI A : P IG EO N C O M B IN E T- S H IR T, O B U S B AT W IN G T O P, S ER EN A V A N D ER W O O D S EN L EG G IN G S , W IT TN ER S H O ES , D A N I M D ES IG N S N EC kL A CE R EB EC CA :P IG EO N C O M B IN E T- S H IR T, H U A B AT W IN G T O P, S ER EN A V A N D ER W O O D S EN L EG G IN G S , W IT TN ER S H O ES , D A N I M D ES IG N S N EC kL A CE A R N S D O R F R U FF LE D B LO U S E, S ER EN A V A N D ER W O O D S EN L EG G IN G S , D A N I M D ES IG N S N EC kL A CE TExT ANDREW DWYER PHOTOGRAPHY MARTIN BLEASDALE HAIR NICOLE THOMAS @ ORB MAkEUP REMI WOOD USING MAC MODEL MADELEINE @ TAMBLYNS Alexandra sites three main influences that she wanted to bring to her S/S collection, those being: Japanese Minimalism – sparked by her finding some vintage kimonos that were 90 years old. She fell in love with these kimonos for, “their simplicity was bold and clean”. The Linear- Alexandra has been obsessed with the idea of breaking the body down into block areas and creating space within the garments. The Artist Mr Bill Hammond The garments used in this shoot were not part of Alexandra’s S/S collection. They are specifically crafted pieces created by the designer and used exclusively in the shoot by kind permission of Alexandra. We recognise the work of distinguished New Zealand artist Mr Bill Hammond in conceptualising the imagery behind this piece. Specifically we reference his painting entitled “Placemakers 1”. Julie Rauer in her discussion of the painting references what she describes as the anthropomorphic bird-men in the pieces and describes the role and depiction in the piece as referencing a nature that “lives now only on the surface of their skin”. Alexandra also sites a fascination with Mr Hammond’s bird/human morphed together figures. They captured our imagination as well. See Bill Hammond’s original artwork at www.nz-artists.co.nz/hammond/hammond.htm ALEXANDRA OWEN Alexandra sites three main influences that she wanted to bring to her S/S collection, those being: Japanese Minimalism – sparked by her finding some vintage kimonos that were 90 years old. She fell in love with these kimonos for, “their simplicity was bold and clean”. The Linear - Alexandra has been obsessed with the idea of breaking the body down into block areas and creating space within the garments. The Artist Mr Bill Hammond. The garments used in this shoot were not part of Alexandra’s S/S collection. They are specifically crafted pieces created by the designer and used exclusively in the shoot by kind permission of Alexandra. We recognise the work of distinguished New Zealand artist Mr Bill Hammond in conceptualising the imagery behind this piece. Specifically we reference his painting entitled “Placemakers 1”. Julie Rauer in her discussion of the painting references what she describes as the anthropomorphic bird-men in the pieces and describes the role and depiction in the piece as referencing a nature that “lives now only on the surface of their skin”. Alexandra also sites a fascination with Mr Hammond’s bird/human morphed together figures. They captured our imagination as well. http://www.asianart.com/exhibitions/paradise/ article.html PHOTOgRAPHy kIRSTY DUCHET MODEl DYTHEA @ TAMBLYNS PHOTOgRAPHy ASSISTANT DIONNE PETTINGILL STylIST LUCIA ARIAS MARTINEZ HAIR MEG DURRINGTON @ STYLE FUSION MAkEuP DESIREE USING MAC PAST AND PENDING P R EV IO U S A R N S D O R F TO P, H AT ( S TY LI S TS O W N ). TH IS P A G E C H EL S EA D E LU CA E A R R IN G S , P LE A S U R E S TA TE C A M IS O LE , F EA TH ER S ( S TY LI S TS O W N ) CA M IL LA A N D M A R C D R ES S @ N A N CY k IN G , C H EL S EA D E LU CA J EW EL LE R Y, C H R IS TI A N L A CR O Ix S H O ES @ N A N CY k IN G , P LE A S U R E S TA TE S U S PE N D ER S , G LO VE S , B EL T & H AT ( S TY LI S TS O W N ). M A R N IE S kI LL IN G S D R ES S @ A kU TI , C H EL S EA D E LU CA E A R R IN G S . M AT IC EV S kI G O W N @ N A N CY k IN G , Z O D A E A R R IN G S @ A kU TI , C H R IS TI A N L A CR O Ix S H O ES @ N A N CY k IN G , H EA D PI EC E (S TY LI S TS O W N ) Akuti +61 7 3844 4451 American Apparel www.americanapparel.net Anon. by Ben Smith +61 412 946 935 www.anonwomen.com Arnsdorf +61 3 9699 7604 www.arnsdorf.com.au for PR enquiries see M.A.P +61 2 9662 1655 Camilla & Marc www.camillaandmarc.com for PR enquiries see Golightly PR +61 2 9699 8655 Chelsea De Luca +61 418 355 903 info@chelseadeluca.com.au Dani M Designs +61 3 9663 0064 www.danimdesigns.com Gail Sorronda +61 7 3257 0100 www.gailsorronda.com for PR enquiries see agenturv rike@agenturv.de HUA +61 402 734 066 www.tamhua.com Jean Brown Robe +61 7 3257 2888 www.jeanbrown.com.au karen Walker www.karenwalker.com for PR enquiries see Paul Maloney Fashion Agency +61 2 9281 1110 Limedrop +61 3 9415 6310 www.limedrop.com.au Little Tailleur +61 418 216 024 www.littletailleur.com.au Marnie Skillings +61 2 9369 1791 www.marnieskillings.com.au for PR enquiries see Golightly PR +61 2 9699 8655 Maticevski +61 3 9689 9144 www.tonimaticevski.com for PR enquiries see Line Communications +61 2 9356 2711 Nancy king +61 7 3844 7404 www.nancyking.com.au Obus www.obus.com.au Pigeon Combine +61 439 003 593 www.pigeoncombine.com Pleasure State +61 2 9004 8077 www.pleasurestate.com Red Robin Serena Van Der Woodsen +61 412 244 480 Style Fusion +61 411 333 339 www.stylefusion.com.au Wittner Shoes 1300 137 463 www.wittner.com.au STOCKISTS WE WOULD LIkE TO THANk TO THE FOLLOWING FOR THEIR PATIENCE & SUPPORT Martin, kirsty, Nick, Andrew, Alexandra, Paula, Remi, Nicole, Lucia, Meg, Desiree, Charlotte, kylie, Bree @ M.A.P, Chris & Dana @ BL:ND, Cecilia, Ben, Dominic @ Pleasure State, Georgette @ Little Tailleur.